Supplement to Travel Trade
May 2000

The Queen of the West

A Journey Into the Past

As the Queen of the West, an authentic sternwheel-driven cruise ship, plied the Columbia River on a recent sunny afternoon, it evoked a feeling of another era.

With its paddlewheel churning and calliope playing old-fashioned melodies, the red, white and blue-draped vessel glided past pristine Pacific Northwest scenery.

"Surely," exclaimed a passenger peering over the railing on Vista Deck, "we must have stepped back in time."

For during their heyday in the 1800s, more than 300 sternwheeler riverboats operated along the same Great Northwest Rivers -- the Willamette, Columbia and Snake -- that the Queen of the West cruises along today.

Back then, the rivers served as bustling "highways" for transportation and commerce.

But, by the early 1900s, as railroads and automobiles proliferated, the romantic age of the riverboats faded into history and the last overnight passenger sternwheeler operating on the mighty Columbia River was removed from service in 1917.

Then, one year ago, the Seattle-based American West Steamboat Company revived those legendary days when it debuted the Queen of the West, offering 4-, 5-, and 7-night cruises, roundtrip from Portland, OR.

The U.S.-flagged Queen of the West is the fulfillment of a dream for Bob Giersdorf, president of American West and of Great Rivers Cruises & Tours, both based in Seattle.

His aim: to offer a "new generation" of small cruise ships, replicating the authenticity and glamour of the Showboat-era paddlewheelers, while adding more full-service amenities and some design enhancements.

Giersdorf, whom I met onboard the Queen of the West during a 7-day cruise (he was supervising a promotional video shoot), also wanted the vessel to be "the platform" on which passengers could experience the history of this region.

Indeed, the rich history, culture, scenery and points of interest along the way make a voyage on the Queen of the West memorable.

Carefully selected shore tour programs are included in the price of the cruise and a Queen of the West sailing is clearly a destination cruise experience.

The 163-passenger vessel itself is also a pure delight, offering plush and elegant surroundings.

Giersdorf, who, along with the ship's captain Robert Wrangel and a naval architect, designed the Queen, said he wanted to create a feeling of spaciousness -- and he has succeeded admirably.

The ship's corridors are wide; the staterooms are roomy (there's even space under the bed to store luggage and the rooms have large bathrooms).

All of the 73 staterooms and suites are outside cabins which feature large view windows, satellite TVs that offer six channels, and VCRs. The Riverboatique Gift Shop has a good selection of videos and rentals are free for the asking.

In addition to four large suites, there are six superior staterooms, which include a sitting area, refrigerator/mini-bar, thick terry robes, a larger TV/VCR and more windows than the spacious First Class category, which comprises the majority of staterooms.

A number of First Class cabins can accommodate triples and quads and two are designed for wheelchair accessibility.

There are also four Value Staterooms, which are a bit smaller and have one lower single bed plus an upper fold-down Pullman berth.

And, verandahs are available in all categories.

Our Superior stateroom was tastefully decorated in gray and fuschia tones.

Although window treatments throughout the ship are draped valences that allow for unobstructed views, stateroom windows also have a regular shade to block out the light, as well as a white translucent shade with eyelit-like openings that enables occupants to gaze outside witffered, since most passengers have expressed preference for the 7-day cruises.

Day 6, back in the Columbia Gorge, we visited the Maryhill Museum of Art -- also known as the "Museum in the Middle of Nowhere." Attorney Sam Hill originally built the mansion in 1914 after purchasing 7,000 acres to establish a Quaker agricultural community. But, the Quakers took one look at the arid land in this part of the Gorge and decided against it.

Eventually, thanks to the intervention of some of Hill's famous friends (including Queen Marie of Rumania), the mansion was turned into a splendid art museum that includes an extensive Rodin collection and other gems, such as the gilded, carved furniture and other personal possessions of Queen Marie.

Nearby, Hill constructed a Stonehenge replica to honor area residents who died in World War I.

On Day 7, from the historic waterfront of Astoria -- the first American settlement on the Pacific Coast -- our tour included a visit to Fort Clatsop, where Lewis and Clark headquartered in the Winter of 1805-06. National Park hosts show a film of the Lewis and Clark exploration, and a reproduction of the fort can be visited.

Just as Lewis and Clark's mission was completed when they reached the Pacific Ocean, our land visits neared an end along the ruggedly beautiful Oregon Coast at the seaside resort of Cannon Beach. Back at the Astoria waterfront, there was time to visit the exceptional Columbia River Maritime Museum before heading back to Portland, which we reached early the next morning.

While it may sound like a whirlwind schedule, there were many peaceful interludes in between. The majority of my fellow passengers were senior citizens and the cruise line is sensitive to their needs -- such as pulling up the motorcoaches as close as possible to an attraction.

Back at the ship, maneuvering around the four decks is also made easy by the convenient passenger elevator in addition to a spacious, centrally-located Grand Staircase.

Daily cocktail hours take place at 6 p.m. in the Paddlewheel Lounge on Pioneer Deck and the Columbia Showroom on Explorer Deck (and occasionally on Vista Deck), with welcome platters of hors d'oeuvres and musical accompaniment.

After dinner, most passengers head to the Columbia Lounge, decorated in green and rose beige. This comfortable room on the bow, with large view windows on three sides, features a small bandstand and space for dancing.

Upholstered chairs and floral couches are set up for the nightly entertainment, which varies throughout the voyage, and includes Country and Western, Big Bands,Broadway favorites and an historical Theater At Sea.

By day, the Columbia Lounge, which has a rich wooden bar and six barstools, is the meeting place for shore excursions.

When the after-dinner entertainment ends, "night owls" head up one deck to the Paddlewheel Lounge, where large windows on the stern side provide a great view of the churning paddlewheel. Comfortable upholstered chairs are grouped together for conversation and floral sofas line the wall opposite the paddlewheel.

The predominately green, rose and beige room also features a wood bar. In the corner, Marjorie Sand entertains with vocals and piano until midnight. On the opposite side of the room, seats face three tables that contain, respectively, deluxe wooden sets of Scrabble and Monopoly and a chess set.

Next year, Queen of the West will sail every month but January. Cruise rates, which span five levels, are considerably cheaper during off-season and early booking rates are offered.

American West is now planning to build another vessel, which Giersdorf said will be a sidewheeler and will cruise Puget Sound sometime in 1998 or 1999.

As the Queen of the West, an authentic sternwheel-driven cruise ship, plied the Columbia River on a recent sunny afternoon, it evoked a feeling of another era.

With its paddlewheel churning and calliope playing old-fashioned melodies, the red, white and blue-draped vessel glided past pristine Pacific Northwest scenery.

"Surely," exclaimed a passenger peering over the railing on Vista Deck, "we must have stepped back in time."

For during their heyday in the 1800s, more than 300 sternwheeler riverboats operated along the same Great Northwest Rivers -- the Willamette, Columbia and Snake -- that the Queen of the West cruises along today.

Back then, the rivers served as bustling "highways" for transportation and commerce.

But, by the early 1900s, as railroads and automobiles proliferated, the romantic age of the riverboats faded into history and the last overnight passenger sternwheeler operating on the mighty Columbia River was removed from service in 1917.

Then, one year ago, the Seattle-based American West Steamboat Company revived those legendary days when it debuted the Queen of the West, offering 4-, 5-, and 7-night cruises, roundtrip from Portland, OR.

The U.S.-flagged Queen of the West is the fulfillment of a dream for Bob Giersdorf, president of American West and of Great Rivers Cruises & Tours, both based in Seattle.

His aim: to offer a "new generation" of small cruise ships, replicating the authenticity and glamour of the Showboat-era paddlewheelers, while adding more full-service amenities and some design enhancements.

Giersdorf, whom I met onboard the Queen of the West during a 7-day cruise (he was supervising a promotional video shoot), also wanted the vessel to be "the platform" on which passengers could experience the history of this region.

Indeed, the rich history, culture, scenery and points of interest along the way make a voyage on the Queen of the West memorable.

Carefully selected shore tour programs are included in the price of the cruise and a Queen of the West sailing is clearly a destination cruise experience.

The 163-passenger vessel itself is also a pure delight, offering plush and elegant surroundings.

Giersdorf, who, along with the ship's captain Robert Wrangel and a naval architect, designed the Queen, said he wanted to create a feeling of spaciousness -- and he has succeeded admirably.

The ship's corridors are wide; the staterooms are roomy (there's even space under the bed to store luggage and the rooms have large bathrooms).

All of the 73 staterooms and suites are outside cabins which feature large view windows, satellite TVs that offer six channels, and VCRs. The Riverboatique Gift Shop has a good selection of videos and rentals are free for the asking.

In addition to four large suites, there are six superior staterooms, which include a sitting area, refrigerator/mini-bar, thick terry robes, a larger TV/VCR and more windows than the spacious First Class category, which comprises the majority of staterooms.

A number of First Class cabins can accommodate triples and quads and two are designed for wheelchair accessibility.

There are also four Value Staterooms, which are a bit smaller and have one lower single bed plus an upper fold-down Pullman berth.

And, verandahs are available in all categories.

Our Superior stateroom was tastefully decorated in gray and fuschia tones.

Although window treatments throughout the ship are draped valences that allow for unobstructed views, stateroom windows also have a regular shade to block out the light, as well as a white translucent shade with eyelit-like openings that enables occupants to gaze outside witffered, since most passengers have expressed preference for the 7-day cruises.

Day 6, back in the Columbia Gorge, we visited the Maryhill Museum of Art -- also known as the "Museum in the Middle of Nowhere." Attorney Sam Hill originally built the mansion in 1914 after purchasing 7,000 acres to establish a Quaker agricultural community. But, the Quakers took one look at the arid land in this part of the Gorge and decided against it.

Eventually, thanks to the intervention of some of Hill's famous friends (including Queen Marie of Rumania), the mansion was turned into a splendid art museum that includes an extensive Rodin collection and other gems, such as the gilded, carved furniture and other personal possessions of Queen Marie.

Nearby, Hill constructed a Stonehenge replica to honor area residents who died in World War I.

On Day 7, from the historic waterfront of Astoria -- the first American settlement on the Pacific Coast -- our tour included a visit to Fort Clatsop, where Lewis and Clark headquartered in the Winter of 1805-06. National Park hosts show a film of the Lewis and Clark exploration, and a reproduction of the fort can be visited.

Just as Lewis and Clark's mission was completed when they reached the Pacific Ocean, our land visits neared an end along the ruggedly beautiful Oregon Coast at the seaside resort of Cannon Beach. Back at the Astoria waterfront, there was time to visit the exceptional Columbia River Maritime Museum before heading back to Portland, which we reached early the next morning.

While it may sound like a whirlwind schedule, there were many peaceful interludes in between. The majority of my fellow passengers were senior citizens and the cruise line is sensitive to their needs -- such as pulling up the motorcoaches as close as possible to an attraction.

Back at the ship, maneuvering around the four decks is also made easy by the convenient passenger elevator in addition to a spacious, centrally-located Grand Staircase.

Daily cocktail hours take place at 6 p.m. in the Paddlewheel Lounge on Pioneer Deck and the Columbia Showroom on Explorer Deck (and occasionally on Vista Deck), with welcome platters of hors d'oeuvres and musical accompaniment.

After dinner, most passengers head to the Columbia Lounge, decorated in green and rose beige. This comfortable room on the bow, with large view windows on three sides, features a small bandstand and space for dancing.

Upholstered chairs and floral couches are set up for the nightly entertainment, which varies throughout the voyage, and includes Country and Western, Big Bands,Broadway favorites and an historical Theater At Sea.

By day, the Columbia Lounge, which has a rich wooden bar and six barstools, is the meeting place for shore excursions.

When the after-dinner entertainment ends, "night owls" head up one deck to the Paddlewheel Lounge, where large windows on the stern side provide a great view of the churning paddlewheel. Comfortable upholstered chairs are grouped together for conversation and floral sofas line the wall opposite the paddlewheel.

The predominately green, rose and beige room also features a wood bar. In the corner, Marjorie Sand entertains with vocals and piano until midnight. On the opposite side of the room, seats face three tables that contain, respectively, deluxe wooden sets of Scrabble and Monopoly and a chess set.

Next year, Queen of the West will sail every month but January. Cruise rates, which span five levels, are considerably cheaper during off-season and early booking rates are offered.

American West is now planning to build another vessel, which Giersdorf said will be a sidewheeler and will cruise Puget Sound sometime in 1998 or 1999.