At the QM2

By Carol Eannarino

I attended the naming ceremony of the Queen Mary 2 in January 2004 in Southampton, where we had only part of a day to take a whirlwind, self-guided tour (along with hundreds of others) of the “biggest, longest, tallest, most expensive” ship in the world. It was somewhat difficult to envision taking a cruise on this behemoth gem of the ocean. Would we be overwhelmed by its size? Would we be lost, roaming the corridors, as we sometimes were during that initial tour? And, finally, would the QM2 live up to all of the hoopla that surrounded its inaugural?
A 12-day Splendors of Fall QM2 cruise this September to Canada and New England provided the answers to these questions.
No, we were not overwhelmed by the Queen’s size. Although our preference has been medium-size ships, we liked every inch (or millimeter) of the QM2.
No, we did not get lost (well, maybe once or twice) thanks to the helpful ship cutaways hanging near the elevators, which identified one’s location by proclaiming “You are HERE.” Since most of the public rooms and the main dining room, Britannia, are located on Decks 2 and 3, it’s not that difficult to navigate.
And, yes, the QM2 more than lived up to the inaugural hoopla. We generated excitement in every port. As hotel manager David Stephenson aptly put it, the QM2 has “cachet.”
What’s more, the cruise departed from and returned to a New York City pier not too far from our Manhattan apartment.
When viewed from the pier, the QM2 is jaw dropping, with its soaring height, impressive black hull, white superstructure and distinctive red funnel. Purpose built as an ocean liner for sailing the sometimes turbulent North American waters, it is a striking ship that stands out among today’s mostly all-white cruise ships.
Embarking passengers enter the ship on Deck 2 via the Grand Lobby, which is relatively small for a ship this size, with an atrium that rises six decks upwards. The Lobby is quietly elegant, with red carpeting extending up the two staircases that lead to the second level of the lobby, where the upscale Mayfair shops (Hermes, Chopard and H. Stern among them) are located.
The Lobby features comfortable chairs and settees that surround a baby grand piano. On our cruise, harpist Megan Davis played here almost nightly.
The pursuer and tour desks are to one side near two small glass elevators that lead to Decks 3 and 7, the promenade deck where the King’s Court and Grill restaurants are located. A larger bank of elevators is located off the opposite side of the Lobby.
The panels that line the ship’s enormous corridors on Decks 2 and 3 are part of the its outstanding $5 million art collection.
Also on Decks 2 and 3 is the lovely two-tiered Royal Court Theater, which can seat about 1,100 guests. Along with the plush velvet sofas are some moveable swivel seats and small tables. Drink orders are taken.
There are two shows nightly. Along with performances by the Royal Cunard Players, audiences were treated to a variety of talented entertainers. The humor of the American comedian Cary Long appealed to all nationalities (the passenger mix was 60%-65% North American; with the remainder British and international, Stephenson told me, adding that the German market is particularly strong). Pianist Bobby Crush, familiar to British passengers, stood out, as did a performer named Edge who doesn’t book himself as a juggler (“nobody would come”) and instead called his entertaining show “The Evolution of Manipulation.” Fiddler/violinist Doug Cameron and singer Lisa Donavan also were top notch.
The British humor of omnipresent cruise director Brian Price, who served in this capacity on the Queen Elizabeth 2 for 12 years, was much appreciated by passengers.
Forward of the theatre is Illuminations, the only planetarium at sea. Three different shows were featured during our voyage. Since seating is limited, complimentary tickets are available at the desk in front of Cunard ConneXions, forward on Deck 2 and adjacent to the Internet Café. Various computer classes ranging from beginner to more advanced offerings are featured here. Complimentary hot and cold beverages are always available outside the ConneXions room.
The corridors that flank this area, both on the port and on the sideboard sides, have tables set up by the windows with Scrabble, Trivial Pursuit and other games. The opposite walls feature Maritime Quest, a permanent exhibition of murals, paintings and ship’s models found here and throughout the ship detailing Cunard’s history. (A model of the QM2 is located behind the bar in the Commodore Club, a comfortable retreat on Deck 9).
Deck 2 also houses the Empire Casino, which stretches along the port side and features gaming tables, slot machines and a bar.
The QM2, like the QE2, assigns dining based on a class system. Guests in staterooms A1-A3 (deluxe balcony), B1-B6 (premium balcony); C1-C4 (standard oceanview) and D1-D8 (standard inside) dine in the two-tiered Britannia restaurant. This glamorous, spacious room serves 1,347 passengers at a time in two seatings. A huge tapestry of a Cunard ship is the room’s focal point. Two sweeping staircases lead to the restaurant’s balcony, where a string quartet plays nightly.
The food is excellent, as it is in the ship’s other restaurants the Queen’s Grill (for guests in Q1-A7 duplex apartments, suites and penthouses) and the Princess Grill, where we dined, (for P1-P3 junior suite guests). Both Grills have an intimate ambience, with subdued lighting and impeccable service and offer a single seating. Canyon Ranch spa selections are available on all menus.
The Kings Court on Deck 7 serves buffet breakfast and luncheon in multiple venues, Lotus (Asian); La Piazza (Italian), which we favored; and the Carvery (with a British touch). La Piazza also serves snacks from 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. and 11 p.m. to 5 a.m.
Many of the seats overlook the promenade deck, which is lined by cushioned teak deck chairs. There were times when it was difficult to find a seat near the buffet stations. However, Stephenson said that when the ship enters drydock, Nov. 8-19, at Blohm + Voss Repair in Hamburg, 70 more seats will be added in this area. In addition, he noted that some of the ship’s carpeting will be replaced, the Princess Grill will be remodeled and the propulsion units, anchor winches and four stabilizers will be overhauled.
At night, Kings Court venues are transformed into restaurants, with subdued lighting and lovely table settings. It’s advised to reserve in advance. Another Kings Court restaurant, the Chef’s Galley, accommodates 36 guests, who can watch master chefs prepare their dinner. ($30/person).
Todd English, the alternative restaurant on Deck 8, is a stylish venue serving sumptuous cuisine for lunch ($20/person) and dinner ($30). Suggest that your clients dine there at least once, as we did, for a special treat. Right outside the restaurant is the Todd English Terrace Pool Bar and a small pool.
A lunch of fish and chips, bangers and mash or Indian curry can be had at the Golden Lion pub, a convivial meeting place on Deck 2. The Boardwalk Café on Deck 12 serves informal snacks, weather permitting.
Since one of the complaints heard during the few months following the QM2’s inaugural involved slow room service, we ordered room service breakfast to check it out. The tray arrived on time. In fact, said Stephenson, the few complaints received these days is that the food arrived five minutes early! Many of the improvements in food and food service can be credited to Stephenson, who joined on as hotel manager in September 2004.
While there were only seven children on our cruise, Stephenson said that during school vacations and in the summer, the QM2 has hosted as many as 350. The Play Zone program, aft on Deck 6, is open to children as young as one (a room with cribs is available) through teens, with groups broken down by age range. The Zone staff is comprised of college educated, qualified British nannies and the facilities are bright and cheerful.
The Library on Deck 8 is well-stocked with 8,000 hardcover books. There are a few cozy nooks where one can sit and read. There are also several computer terminals in the library. Adjacent is a small bookstore selling Cunard and other sea-related items.
The elegant Queens Room, with its huge wooden dance floor and sparkling chandeliers, is the venue for a number of activities, including ballroom and Latin dancing, themed balls and Commodore Ronald Warwick’s cocktail parties (the legendary commodore will be retiring next year) plus afternoon tea (also served in the Kings Court Lotus).
Stephenson said that the 12-day cruises aren’t as lively at night as the QM2’s trans-Atlantic sailings, but there is plenty of action for those who want it. Along with the numerous lounges — including the Veuve Cliquot Champagne bar, a stylish venue — is the G32 Nightclub (named after the shipyard’s hull number for the QM2). This glitzy venue is surely the “jazziest” room onboard.
The Canyon Ranch Spa on Deck 7 (the Salon is on Deck 8) offers a full range of treatments, including acupuncture. Use of the stunning Aqua Therapy pool is available, along with a number of other extras, with a Spa Club passport ranging from one to five consecutive days.
We peeked in to see the small kennels on Deck 12, which can hold 12 animals, though none were on board during this cruise. We were advised that the most pets they’ve accommodated in one cruise were five dogs and two cats. There is a designated kennel master.
Nearly 78% of the staterooms offer ocean views. Seventy three percent feature balconies. (On Deck 6, a number of staterooms have a hull balcony, which has been described as a picture window cut into the hull, minus the glass). Staterooms range in size from 194 square feet for standard inside, standard ocean view and atrium accommodations, to the most lavish suites, the 2.249 square feet Balmoral and Sandringham duplexes. Our Junior suite on Deck 10 was 381 square feet and included a sitting area, spacious walk-in closet, a full bath with tub and shower (and large Egyptian cotton towels) and large balcony. An interactive TV allows one to send or receive E-mail ($1.50 per message), select a video or music on demand, etc.
Gratuities are deducted from the bill: $13/person/day from the Grill accommodations and $11/person/day for the Britannia diners. The purser’s office is not forthcoming when you ask about additional tipping; however, if you choose to do so, envelopes are available.
On this 12-day cruise, there were one casual and four formal evenings. The remainder were termed “informal,” meaning a jacket and tie for men and a cocktail dress or dressy pantsuit for women. The majority of passengers seemed to really enjoy dressing for dinner. After all, they are sailing on the incomparable QM2, a Cunarder that delivers much of the glamour and style of yesterday’s classic ocean liners.

VITAL STATISTICS
Queen Mary 2
Country of Registry: Great Britain
Tonnage: 151,400
Length: 1,132’
Width: 131’
Height: 236.2 feet (keel to funnel)
Cruising speed: 28.5 knots (maximum 30)
Passsengers: 2,620 (double)
Handicapped accessible cabins: 30
In 2006, the QM2 will feature South America cruises in January and March, Mexico and Hawaii in February; trans-Atlantic July, August, and Nov. 11, and Eastern Caribbean Nov. 18 through Dec. 30, in addition to several repositioning and Atlantic coast sailings.