By Carol Eannarino

Substitute “spring” for “summer”, and this definition aptly describes the recent Seine River cruise we took aboard Peter Deilmann’s Cezanne from Paris through Normandy.
How else can you describe sitting on the riverboat’s sun deck watching the vineyards, historic abbeys, Norman castles, tranquil orchards, chalky cliffs, half-timbered houses and medieval towns pass by?
The Cezanne is an artful ship, tastefully decorated and amply staffed with polite, young English-speaking men and women — most from Western and Eastern Europe, although our efficient waiter, Arvind, was from Mauritius. There’s one crewmember for every 2.5 passengers — quite a good ratio for a river vessel.
The boat has 44 twin-bedded cabins at 162-square feet and six queen-bedded at 178-square feet — all outside accommodations. Upper deck cabins feature a full-length window, while lower deck cabins have three large portholes.
Our cabin was one of the latter and, quite honestly, this is one time that the old question, “How much time do you spend in your cabin?” rang true.
Our time was spent either on the sun deck, in the comfortable lounge or attractive dining room — both with wide windows that provided excellent views — or outside on shore excursions or exploring on our own.
Generally, by the time we returned to our cabin, it was for pure relaxation — reading or watching CNN or an English-speaking film on the satellite TV.
The twin beds serve as sofas during the day, though we never could figure out how they worked (not like the typical pullout couch; we surmised they were custom made). They were magically turned down upon our return from dinner, along with a chocolate and the guide for the next day. The down pillow and heavenly European-style duvet ensured a peaceful night’s sleep.
Our cabin had large, built-in closets, plenty of drawer space, a desk, safe and hair dryer. There was a handy wooden table between the beds with room for storing papers and magazines and pullout extensions on both sides.
The bathroom was lovely, with marble tiles and a curving vanity providing plenty of counter space. There was a see-through shower in the corner and luxurious Molton Brown amenities — plus terry robes and slippers to relax in. The floor was beautiful — either polyurethaned teak or a very good imitation.
The attractive blue and gold dining room serves six meals daily (the extra three are morning bouillon, afternoon tea and late-night snack).
There is one dinner sitting (generally 7 or 7:30 p.m.) and tables for two, four, six and up. Passengers choose what type of seating they prefer at the beginning of the cruise.
Our cruise had several small groups from the U.S. — one had come to run the Paris 40k Marathon on the day after our embarkation. The passenger mix seemed to be well balanced between Americans and Germans (though apparently the ratio varies from cruise to cruise) — and the latter were generally quite friendly. Two German couples sitting at the next table in the dining room tried out their rudimentary English on us and were extremely good-natured. Average age seemed to be a well preserved and active 58.
We had cruised on another Deilmann ship, the Heidelberg, two years ago and were impressed by the excellent food. The Cezanne’s cuisine lived up to Deilmann’s high standards.
An early risers’ breakfast is served in the lounge from 6:30 to 7 a.m., while the regular dining room breakfast is from 7 to 9 a.m. A breakfast buffet featured a variety of foods to please both German and American tastes — fresh salmon, smoked fish, eggs, cereal, bacon, bread, pastries and a variety of cheeses and yogurts were among the choices. Passengers also have the option of ordering a hot breakfast special. Among the choices of juices, we selected cranberry one morning — to the amusement of our new German friends, who thought we were drinking wine.
Speaking of wine, there is a wine list containing a wide choice of regions and prices. Passengers can also order wine by the glass. If you don’t finish your bottle, it’s corked for the next lunch or dinner (the same goes for mineral water, which is sold by the liter).
At lunch, passengers have the choice of a well-stocked buffet, with salads, luncheon meats, fresh fruit, various types of fish, soup, and perhaps a pasta dish, etc.
A cheese board featured some delicious French cheeses, and an accompanying booklet described their flavors and where they were made. (Among the facts learned along the way is that the milk from Norman cows has a high fat content, excellent for making cheese. The cows also provide tender meat and, because of the dark rings around their eyes are referred to as “the cows with glasses.”)
Guests can also order from the luncheon menu, which, like the dinner menu, featured excellent meat and vegetarian choices.
Dinner is a feast of six courses (including a palate cleanser, usually a fruit sherbet). We marveled at the quality of the meats, the freshness of the produce and the attractive presentation.
Every morsel was delicious and, considering there’s a kitchen staff of only four (including a pastry chef), we were awed by their efficiency and proficiency.
For our gala farewell dinner (one of two formal nights), the waiters brought out Baked Alaska (topped with sparklers) for dessert and it was the best we’ve ever tasted.
Though we never made it to morning bouillon, we did have tea and fresh éclairs served once while we were on the sun deck (which has plenty of deck chairs and tables with umbrellas) during teatime. And, during the one evening we skipped dinner, we welcomed the self-service late night snack in the lounge at about 10:30 p.m., which included fruit, cheese and some tasty hot canapés.
The comfortable lounge, decorated in yellow and green, features lots of cushy couches and comfortable armchairs. Although smoking is not allowed in the dining room, staterooms or corridors, smoking is permitted on one side of the lounge. (The handful of “regulars” who sat in the smoking area were, for the most part, Americans).
The lounge, which includes a well-stocked bar open from 9:30 a.m. and a small library, was a popular gathering spot. Generally, passengers meet here before dinner for a rundown of the next day’s activities. Cocktail hour starts at 6:30 p.m., with a Cocktail of the Day highlighted.
The lounge was also the venue for two captain’s cocktail parties and evening entertainment, which included Alexander Hopff, a talented pianist and singer who played nightly. One evening a guest singer, Fabrice Thierry, came on board to sing famous French chansons; another night, an illusionist named Draco entertained. There’s a small dance floor in the middle of the lounge.
The reception area is open 24 hours and the staff that mans it is extremely helpful. Passengers can exchange money here and buy water for shore excursions. There’s also a small boutique to one side and hairdressing is available by appointment. A nice selection of art, some of it original, appears throughout the vessel.
Although there’s not much time for daytime activities, a highlight was a painting class held on the sun deck. Passengers proudly showed off their artwork.
One reassuring note is that there is an infirmary with a qualified doctor onboard all of Deilmann’s riverboats. There’s no Internet, but we finally managed to “connect” at a cyber café in Rouen.
The April weather was perfect during our cruise and though the evenings were somewhat cool, the sun deck was a popular evening venue.
On the evening of our departure from Paris, the vessel backed up, providing passengers on the sun deck with a breathtaking view of the Eiffel Tower, which was just about to be illuminated. A French accordionist played on the deck and everyone went “ah!!” when the lights were turned on.
The sun deck also has two stationary bikes. Blankets are available, if needed.
What makes a river cruise truly special are the stops along the way. Our itinerary started in Paris and included stops in Les Andelys, Caudebec-en-Caux (overnight), Rouen (overnight), Vernon and back to Paris. (See sidebar)
Deilmann charges extra for shore excursions, which are of a high quality and led by knowledgeable guides. Guests may also purchase in advance a package of excursions for $205 per person. Often, English- and German-speaking guests go on separate tours, although occasionally everyone is transported in a motorcoach with either two guides or a bilingual guide.
Pre-and post cruise packages are also available.
The Cezanne sails from late March to mid-September on 7-night cruises that include Paris roundtrip, Paris to Rouen or Rouen to Paris itineraries.

The Sights of Normandy

While passengers can discover some itinerary spots on their own, it’s generally more efficient and educational to take a guided tour. For a day in Paris, we selected a morning tour to the Palace of Versailles, now a national museum. Built by King Louis XIV outside Paris in 1668, the sumptuous palace housed 20,000 nobles and was the center of the French monarchy until the 1789 revolution.
Highlights are the Hall of Mirrors and the luxurious apartment of Marie Antoinette. Commoners stormed the Palace in 1789, pilfering many of the furnishings (some were later discovered and returned) and dragging off King Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette to their sorry fate in Paris. The gardens and fountains are quite impressive.
The afternoon tour explored the highlights of Paris, including the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame Cathedral and Les Invalides, a complex of buildings devoted to military history (originally a home for wounded soldiers), where Napoleon Bonaparte’s ashes are buried.
The highlight of the next stop, Les Andelys, are the majestic ruins of the Chateau Gaillard, set high over the Seine valley. Richard the Lionhearted once occupied this massive fortress.
Caudebec-en-Caux, a charming town on its own, is used as a starting off point for trips to the Alabaster Coast and its chalky cliffs, parachuting and cycling (for active cruisers) and a visit to Honfleur, which many consider the loveliest village in Normandy. It’s known for its old picturesque port, characterized by houses with slate-covered fronts and painted by many well-known artists. The town is home to St. Catherine Church, constructed by shipwrights entirely from wood after the 100 Years’ War.
Although it was not scheduled, due to popular demand the ship added a tour to the historic D-Day landing beaches, including Omaha Beach and the extremely moving American cemetery. We also visited Pointe du Hoc, where, on June 6, 1944 the dangerous task of climbing the steep cliffs, where a fortified German battery was located, was entrusted to a special American unit, the 2nd Rangers Battalion, who managed to scale the summit while withstanding German counterattacks. We also visited the D-day Museum in Arromanches. It was a two-hour trip to and from the Cezanne, but one that we all agreed was well worth it.
Rouen is a very “doable” town that many passengers tour on their own. Only steps from the vessel’s docking point, it is noted as the town where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431. There is a monument and modern church located on the site. It’s also noted for the Notre Dame Cathedral. Built over the course of several centuries, it is a living record of how Gothic architecture evolved over the years. The Impressionist painter Claude Monet produced over 30 works of the façade, The heart of Richard the Lionhearted, who loved Rouen, is buried in the cathedral.
From Vernon, another charming town, it’s a short trip to Giverny to visit the house and gardens where Claude Monet and his family settled in 1883. This is a not-to-miss opportunity. There are actually two gardens, and we started with the water garden, which neighbors his property and is crossed by a small brook. The water garden features the Japanese bridge covered with wisterias, planted and painted many times over by Monet, a weeping willow, bamboo and the famous water lilies, which bloom all summer.
The garden that gently slopes from his house to the road is an awesome site. On our April visit, vibrant tulips, pansies and numerous other vivid plants and trees were in bloom. Climbing roses grow on iron arches. Visitors are allowed in the house, where they can view the artist’s simple bedroom and kitchen.